Adalaj ki Vaav or the Rudabai step-well is situated in a village named Adalaj, close to Ahmedabad, Gujarat. It was built by Rani Rudabai in memory of her husband Rana Veer Singh. Vaav is the local name for step-wells and they are distinctive features of North West India which has seen acute water shortage at different times over centuries. These are no ordinary step-wells. Not just do they store cool clean water throughout the year but they are also architectural marvels designed to precision and beautified with carvings (from holy scriptures) of unparalleled beauty and craftsmanship. These live giving wells served also as centres of spiritual significance.
The Vaav at Adalaj is one of the finest specimens of its kind and has a rather poignant history. King Rana Veer Singh had started the construction of the Vaav in the 15th century to counter the perpetual shortage of water. He ordered the digging of the five-storey sandstone structure and the Solanki architectural style was adopted. Each floor was planned to be spacious enough for large number of people to congregate. Mid construction, the ruler of the neighbouring kingdom, Mohammed Begda attacked his kingdom and killed him. His wife Rani Roopba wanted to commit sati but Begda was besotted by her beauty and asked her to marry him. Seeing no way out, she agreed with a small condition, that she would marry him after the step well be constructed fully. Smitten by the beautiful queen, Begda agreed.
The exquisite five storey Vaav was built. Such was the intelligent design that the sculptures of the divine, even in the depth of the fifth floor were clear and visible. The pillars were designed for cross ventilation and temperatures inside the well even today are much lower than the temperatures outside.The wise queen had ensured her beloved husband’s final project was led to completion. She was happy. But she didn’t want to marry Begda. After a prayer and a pradakshina of the step-well, Rudabai jumped in to it and ended her life.
There are five graves near the Vaav. The Vaav is spell- binding even today, and it truly must have been a sight to behold, when it was in its prime. Begda didn’t want its replica to exist, so he ordered the death of the five main masons who built it. The five graves are believed to be of those five men. When one thinks about it, the history of the Vaav is one of heartbreak but overcome by courage, determination and love. Detailed sculptures of each pillar, jharokha and wall are a marvel which could have been achieved only by complete mastery of the art. A few parts of the step-well have Islamic motifs as they were built under the eye of Begda. The rest of them are sculptures of Hindu and Jain Gods and symbols such as the Ami Khambor, Navgraha and Kalpa Vriksh to mention a few. As is often the case in such monuments, many scultptures depict life as it existed centuries ago, with men and women going about their days.
The place is clean, green and well maintained by the local authorities. A major attraction for tourists and locals alike, it is always bustling with people and life.
Vadodara based writer, Aarti K. Pathak is former CEO of a web portal. She writes on various subjects from family, relationships and parenting to her favourite one, her discoveries of India. She blogs at sparrowtimes.wordpress.com.
